mount athos- day 3

Sorry for the delay. I thought this would happen. Limited internet access here in ireland. So, my third day on the holy mountain began at 4am in the church at simenopetra monastery. (as i would later learn, 4am is quite a generous time). We had matins and divine liturgy. It was was probably around 8am, or i think just before, by the time we finished. It was ppretty beautiful. The krylos (choir) at simenopetra was pretty good. It is interesting to note that at all the monesteries i have been to (including the male and female studiite monasteries in ukraine), there are only a handful of monks (or nuns) that sing; the rest of the monks are present, but not singing. So it was normal for monks to besitting with me at the back of the chirch. There is only one meal a day a simenopetra, but after liturgy, they had coffee and little doughnut type things for the guests. Then downtime till 10, when one of the monks shuttled pilgrima to daphne, the main port of athos. I had it in my mind to visit stavronikita monastery (st. Nicholas). Im not too sure why. I think because i read it was a smaller monastery and not such a popular visiting place for pilgrims. So i set off for there (on the other side of the peninsula. I was actually q little dissapointed to see roqds and cars, and buses, once we got to daphne. I had really enjoyed the southern part of the peninsula, where there really are no roads- only walking paths. Suppliea have to be brought in to the communities living there by miule. Anyway, in daphne, who should i have run into other tha my russian friend from the day before. You ssee, simenopetra only acvepts pigrims with a reservation (because i guess they have very limited space and are very popular). So my friend had to go to another monastery the day before. I have to say, it was like meeting a long lost friend when we met each other (which is very odd, because it had only been one day since we saw each other, and we couldnt even speak the same language). Anyway, we took the bus to karyes- the capital of mount athos. There, we visited the most beautiful church i have ever been in (i think its called Protaron). It is very old. The floor inside is even slanted. But the iconography was absolutely breathtaking. I could have stood in that church forever. In this chirch, there is also the miracle working icon of mary; there is a story (which i wont tell right now) which is why we sing : "it is truly right to bless yu O God-bearing one". This church had a very powerful effect on me. The Church of my mama- Maria. From here, i parted ways with my russian friend again, and began the 2.5 hour walk to stavronikita. Along the way, i saw a beautiful dome of the church and monastery. I wasnt sure what this was. But something was nudgimg me to go in. Im so very glad i did. I met two older monks gardening. We had a good chat in the limited english they had (both greeks). They were just both so filled with joy, it was amazing and contagious. They sent me up to the 'cell' (a name given to something smaller than a monastery and skete- but it didnt really seem any smaller). There i met a monk (the guestmaster), with whom i had a really amazing chat; probably an hour or so. He brought me into the church. I have to say, from the moment i entered the gatws of this 'cell', i had the feeling as if i was in paradise. The gardens, the monastery itself, the chapel, and most of all, the joy and peace of the monks. It was really qmazing. And the monk, talking to me in the church, said that it had to be so. This was the purpose of a church and monastery. To give a glimpse or taste of heaven; to point to something else; to lead to the realisation that this life aint all there is. Amazing. And all this in a completely unplannes, unexpected, seemingly random stop. But the Lord wanted me to go there, i believe. After this, i continued on to stavronikita. On my way there, there was qn abandoned church, which in the basement under the altar, was filled with skulls!!! (presumably of monks) The monks are only buried for a few years, when they die. Then they are dug up and their bones are put into osuaries like that. I got to stavronikita about 15mins before vespers. Quickly put my stuff into my room (q room of maybe 10-15 beds, but in which i was the only occupent). Then a quick vespers. It seemed like maybe only a half hour or less. I would soon find out why. Then we had supper; man, it was so much better than simenopetra! It was spinach (or grapeleaves??) with rice, with french fries, a jelly for dessert and red wine!! It was delicious. And the olivea!! Then, at 5.30pm or so, it was bedtime. Why so early you may ask. Well, i'll tell you: because there would be an all night vigil (to be taken literally) from 10:30pm to 6:30am. And of course, all i was able to manage before this began, was to lie awake in my bed for 4.5 hours!!

mount athos- day 2

So the day began pretty early, but not too bad. I was up at 5:30am and was packed and ready to go just after 6:00am. The romanian dude offered to wait for me, as he was going down tje same way. And the russian dude also wanted to come along. So off we went. We gota bit delayed (stuff forgotten) and so we made it to the bottom around 8am. For some reason, i was panicking, cause i thought we had less time than we did. The ferry was meant to leave at ten from st anna skete (a small monastic community that really isnt so small). The romanian guy went off to visit some romanian monks, and me and the russian continued on down. We stopped at a well for water. By this point, it was maybe after 9:15am. I could see that it was still a ways down to the water. But when we got to the main church of st. Anna, an english speaking monk welcomed us so nicely. So even though i had maybe 20 mins to get to the shore, i had to see the chapel and miracle working icon of st. Anna. Very beautiful. We had less than 15 mins to make it down. I aske the monk how long it would take. To my surprise, he said usually 30 mins. So in a made panic, we ran off. And even running down most of the way, it still took me till 10:12am. There was a boat just leaving, and i made a dash fr it, but, thankfully, it wasnt mine. The ferry was late. Praise the Lord! 15 mins later, we were on the way to Simenopetra monastery. The walk up was quite the long hike up. But absolutely beautiful. Ti had heard about the beautiful garden. I even saw a eucalyptus tree. Completely white bark. Finally got to the top. It was like paradise. And i would be surprised again and again when i would visit other monasteries. Physically, it was as if we were removed from the cares of the world. We made it to the guesthouse. We were offeres turkish delight (amazing, and bevause i really hadnt eaten yet that day, i think i ate at least five). There was also water, and shots of uzo (or however you spell that). It was the first friday of the great fast, but i figured, well, i cant let it go to waste now. Then they brought us in to a welcoming room. I met two americans there. I cant remember where they were from. But they were john and george, greek orthodox. I ended up sharing a room with them in the guesthouse. There was quite a long talk by an elder monk (all in greek), then supper (soup, and some vegetables) (the monks ay simenopetra only have one meal a day, at least during the fast, and many of the monks werent even at that meal). The iconography in the dinning room was just as beautiful as the church. After supper, we venerates the relics of the saints there (which i was allowed to do). But it was specified to me that because i was catholic, (or rather non orthodox), i was not allowed to receive communion or the blessed bread and water. We then had vespers. It finished around 6pm. The next services- matins and litirgy- would start at 4 am, so pretty soon it wojld be bedtime. The americans took m to see st. Simons cave, not far from the monastery. It was there, in that small cave, tht st. Simon lived. There, on Christmas eve, he saw the star appear and shine over the rock, and he heard that this would be the place where he should found a monastery. This is why simenopetra is dedicated to the nativity of Jesus. So, we were set to get 9 hours of sleep, but then had some theological 'discussions' with the two americans. Another short night sleep. But, Praise the Lord. Absolutely beautiful monastery.and that was day 2.

mount athos- day 1

All thanks be to God for blessing me in such great abundance on the Holy Mounyain. I am currently on my way back to Thessaloniki after spending 4 days and 3 nights on Mount athos, greece. I will post by day. I left my pansion in ouranoupolis at 5:50am thursday morning. The ferry left at 6:30am. After 2 days of rough sleep because of nnervousness and excitement, and after months and months of planning, i was finally on my way there. God had actually mqfe it possible for me to go to this place blessed by God whence so many saints had luved, and still live! I was actually going! Then we passed the bend in the peninsula, and i saw the mountain-athos- for the first time. I had plans to climb to the chapel bear the top, but at his point, it still hadnt fully registered. I was so excited! Then we started to pass the monasterie. And i realised i hadnt charged my camera the night before. This meant i had 2 bars of power until the following night, when i reached simenopetra monastery. Oh great. It was so hard to resist the temptation to take pictures of everything. On the ferry, the first people i met were 2 younger greeks. They were going to kafsokalivia, like me. Except they were staing there. They were going to see a father there. For one, it was his first time. For the other, he was a very experienced visitor. When i told him of my plans, they were very surprised. The one ad hiked to the top of the mountain maybe 6 or 6 times. But never this early in the year. He relunctantly said it was possible. I soon learnt that people on mount athos, mounks and pilgrims alike, have a different measure of what is accaptable or "normal". Even though peeople thought what i was doing was crazy, they accepted it; i think probably because they realise that God is in charge, and He makes the impoassible possible. And i would learn that on Athos, this is no rare occurance. I also met a russian monk from st sergios monastery in russia on the ferry. He wanted to come live on mount athos. He said it was easier to praise God here. He was going to visit some friends. He also told me that he didnt like st panteleimon (the only russian monastery on athos. He said the brotherhood was not so good. (so i croased that one off my list of places to visit). He also told me that the 4 day visa was only an excuse to kick people off he told me he stayed for 3 months last time without extending his visa. He told me i should stay linger. Too bad i already jad my flight out of greece booked. Oh well. He also told me good monasteries and communities to visit. I bid him farewell, and walked up the 200meters from sea level to the skete (Small monastic community) of kafasokalivia with the 2 greeks i had met. It was so beautiful, but so difficult. The russian monk had told me, "you can make it to panagia (the chapel o near the top of the mountain if you are strong." after these tiny first steps (panagia is 1500 meters up) i thought "and how am i supposed to make it?" but i knew i had to. I was determined. And i had the aupport of those who i met. Then we met 2 monks at kafsokalivia. The priest gave me his blessing, and i loaded my bottles with water, accepted the sandwich the greek guy gave me, and began my long walk. Somehow (at this point i didnt know why), i knew i had absolutely nothing to worry about. The Lord made it clear to me in the days leading up to athos that i would have to deal with my worries and fears on athos. The words i had with me were i think from psalm 125: those who trust in God are like mount zion which cannot be moved." and i was climbing to the top of a mountain probably not unlike mount zion in some sense. I had to trust. The monk at kafsokalivia told me it would be maybe a 5 or 6 hour hike. I left at 10 am. I had maybe 16 or 17 kgs in my bag. Maybe a bit more at the beginning. I began my hike. Alone. I was walking maybe half hour or less before stopping to make rests. And these were the more substantial rests. I had to stop every 5 mins or so to catch my breath. I thoguht, "i sure aint off to a great start." then at some point i realised that it didnt matter. I would get there when i got there. It was absolutely insignificant what time i got there or how long it took. I didnt have a deadline and i didnt have to prove anything to anyone. I was free. Then i began to pray. The Jesus prayer (lord Jesus Christ son of God have mercy on me a sinner) was a constant source of strength. And so were my gospel tunes. Especially 'i saw the light'. Thats a great one. Although i was too short of breath to actually sing, so i sung them in my head. You wouldnt believe what a challenging way it was. Very rocky in many places and steep! But i thought, "the way to you, Lord, aint easy, but its worth it". In my walk, i passed hermitages, cells, and sketes all along the way. I never saw anyone. Ut i knew there were monks all over the forest around me. It was very cool. Then i made it to the crosspath to turn up and begin the actual jike up the mountain. I reached here just after 1pm. There were warning signs from what i could tell(they were in greek and russian) telling the pilgrim that it was a long and hard path: 3 and a half hours. . I began the ascent. Boy, was it hard. But the view was amazing after not even that far. I walked so slowly. But it was great. I kept thinking about panagia chapel. I couldnt wait to see it. And again, and again, and again, i sill didnt see it. Then at around 4 pm, i finally did see it. I was overjoyed. And i saw someone else there. This would become my friend fromrussia. He didnt speak any english, so i communicated with ukrainian. He asked me if i was going to the very top (another 550meters). I said i didnt know. Panagia chapl had obviously been recently renovated. There was the actual chapel part, then there was a room with a well and fireplace, and a room with maybe 15 bunks. Much better than the wooden planks that had been described to me. Then i went outside, thinking i would sit in my journal. And i began to hike up. Maybe 45 or 50 mintues. I made it almost to the last tree and to where the snow started. I thought, its still probably at least half hour. It could get dark soon, and it is dangerous with the snow. I was also completely satisffied and ready to take my boots off. Then 40 mins of walking diwn, i met the russiqn, nd guess what he asks me? "you wanna go up?" !! I said 'no way. Im done.' but then a sudden change inside. Deep down i wanted to go to the top, and with someone else, it would be better. I thought, 'perhaps this is the Lords doing.' so i said, 'ok, lets go'. We walked and we walked. After about40 minutes, t was 6pm. It was beggining to get darker, and he said tjat perhaps that was far enough. I thought at first, 'is this guy kidding me?!?' i walk all the way up here- again!! After hiking all day long. So i said, "15 more minutes." in those 15 minutes, i had to crush my pride. I realised my drive to get to the top was now out of pride. Plus it was also stupid- it was getting dark, and we were full on in the snow at that poi.t. So at 6.15pm. We took some pictures, and again, with no regrets, we turned around and started the descent. It is a good thing too. By the time we got back, it was almost completely dark. I think it was just after 7pm by then. Then inside, i met a romanian and a russian. I really badly just wanted to take off my boots and go to bed at that point (nearly 9 hours hiking in one day! And mostly completely uphill). But again, i tried to step on my bodies own desires, and talked with the other guy for maybe 45mins. Then to bed. And it was chilly. We didnt make a fire. The good part was, we would leave at 6am the next morning, so we should get a decent 9 hours of sleep (haha- think agai; it was a very rough sleep and long night). But the Lord is good. Day 2 will come later.

Greece!

I arrived in greece yesterday, after another long 24 hours of travellin. I left lviv by plane yesterday with a company called wizz air. The flight to milano (bergamo cost about 75$ cad. Then a 12 hour layover ("sleeping" in the airport), then another flight to thessaloniki. Then i had to figure out the local sunday bus schedule (not too often), then to the bus station to ouronoupolis (where i am currently. This town is only about 25km to the border of mount athos! I went to my first ever service in the greek orthodox church yesterday evening (forgiveness vespers). This was the service to begin lent. It eas a very beautiful samall town church (iconography was very beautiful) and the prayers were very beautiful. By the way, cheesfare sunday (the sunday right before lent starts, seems to be quite the celebration here. In the towns i was driving through, there were tents set up with a carnival going on, kids dressed up. Looked pretty interesting. My only fear now is the rain. Yesterday evening it was beautiful (greece is gorgeous- espeially on the sea), but today all day, rain. Oh well. I leave for athos thursday morning, rain or sunahine. Praise the Lord.