mount athos- day 3

Sorry for the delay. I thought this would happen. Limited internet access here in ireland. So, my third day on the holy mountain began at 4am in the church at simenopetra monastery. (as i would later learn, 4am is quite a generous time). We had matins and divine liturgy. It was was probably around 8am, or i think just before, by the time we finished. It was ppretty beautiful. The krylos (choir) at simenopetra was pretty good. It is interesting to note that at all the monesteries i have been to (including the male and female studiite monasteries in ukraine), there are only a handful of monks (or nuns) that sing; the rest of the monks are present, but not singing. So it was normal for monks to besitting with me at the back of the chirch. There is only one meal a day a simenopetra, but after liturgy, they had coffee and little doughnut type things for the guests. Then downtime till 10, when one of the monks shuttled pilgrima to daphne, the main port of athos. I had it in my mind to visit stavronikita monastery (st. Nicholas). Im not too sure why. I think because i read it was a smaller monastery and not such a popular visiting place for pilgrims. So i set off for there (on the other side of the peninsula. I was actually q little dissapointed to see roqds and cars, and buses, once we got to daphne. I had really enjoyed the southern part of the peninsula, where there really are no roads- only walking paths. Suppliea have to be brought in to the communities living there by miule. Anyway, in daphne, who should i have run into other tha my russian friend from the day before. You ssee, simenopetra only acvepts pigrims with a reservation (because i guess they have very limited space and are very popular). So my friend had to go to another monastery the day before. I have to say, it was like meeting a long lost friend when we met each other (which is very odd, because it had only been one day since we saw each other, and we couldnt even speak the same language). Anyway, we took the bus to karyes- the capital of mount athos. There, we visited the most beautiful church i have ever been in (i think its called Protaron). It is very old. The floor inside is even slanted. But the iconography was absolutely breathtaking. I could have stood in that church forever. In this chirch, there is also the miracle working icon of mary; there is a story (which i wont tell right now) which is why we sing : "it is truly right to bless yu O God-bearing one". This church had a very powerful effect on me. The Church of my mama- Maria. From here, i parted ways with my russian friend again, and began the 2.5 hour walk to stavronikita. Along the way, i saw a beautiful dome of the church and monastery. I wasnt sure what this was. But something was nudgimg me to go in. Im so very glad i did. I met two older monks gardening. We had a good chat in the limited english they had (both greeks). They were just both so filled with joy, it was amazing and contagious. They sent me up to the 'cell' (a name given to something smaller than a monastery and skete- but it didnt really seem any smaller). There i met a monk (the guestmaster), with whom i had a really amazing chat; probably an hour or so. He brought me into the church. I have to say, from the moment i entered the gatws of this 'cell', i had the feeling as if i was in paradise. The gardens, the monastery itself, the chapel, and most of all, the joy and peace of the monks. It was really qmazing. And the monk, talking to me in the church, said that it had to be so. This was the purpose of a church and monastery. To give a glimpse or taste of heaven; to point to something else; to lead to the realisation that this life aint all there is. Amazing. And all this in a completely unplannes, unexpected, seemingly random stop. But the Lord wanted me to go there, i believe. After this, i continued on to stavronikita. On my way there, there was qn abandoned church, which in the basement under the altar, was filled with skulls!!! (presumably of monks) The monks are only buried for a few years, when they die. Then they are dug up and their bones are put into osuaries like that. I got to stavronikita about 15mins before vespers. Quickly put my stuff into my room (q room of maybe 10-15 beds, but in which i was the only occupent). Then a quick vespers. It seemed like maybe only a half hour or less. I would soon find out why. Then we had supper; man, it was so much better than simenopetra! It was spinach (or grapeleaves??) with rice, with french fries, a jelly for dessert and red wine!! It was delicious. And the olivea!! Then, at 5.30pm or so, it was bedtime. Why so early you may ask. Well, i'll tell you: because there would be an all night vigil (to be taken literally) from 10:30pm to 6:30am. And of course, all i was able to manage before this began, was to lie awake in my bed for 4.5 hours!!